I'm looking for a balanced 1/4" jack patchbay, preferably 48-way, and would like to hear any recommendations or advice.

I've had three patchbays, all B*hring*r - two unbalanced (PX2000), one balanced (PX3000). They were definitely affordable, but I found the 2000s to be tight and the sockets to be shaky. I like the idea of being able to switch between normalled, half-normalled, open etc. without having to remove cables, but the switches on these units are all on top and therefore the unit still needs to be removed to alter these settings.

I've seen a Samson (about £100) which has switches like that on the front panel, which might be handy, and an ART (about £90) which has them round the back. Both those are enclosed units.

There are various units about half that price, such as the Studiospares and Rean models, but they seem to be mostly open, and only covered on the top side, which I would have though left the whole lot open to dust and gunge... my rack is a Quiklok with perforated metal sides and an open top and rear, so I suspect a sealed patchbay would be better. Would it actually make much difference? These units are configured by rotating the PCBs, which sounds awkward.

Also, I'm going to replace all my DIY unbalanced looms with balanced - but I'm put off by the prices of good looms (well into three figures) and am not sure of the quality of cheaper examples (such as the Studiospares at about £30 a piece). I've had cheap cables before where the plugs are either not the right dimensions, the sections of the barrel are not in line, the plating flakes off, etc.

DIYing an 18-way balanced loom also looks like a pricey business, with the cable being the cheapest part - and about a hundred quid's worth of Neutriks to solder on to it...

For home use, does anybody have any suggestions for these items?

Quote nathanscribe:

---

DIYing an 18-way balanced loom also looks like a pricey business, with the cable being the cheapest part - and about a hundred quid's worth of Neutriks to solder on to it...

---

Not much to say about patchbay but take a look at Neutrik's website (I've seen them at AES earlier on this year at it looked good), but I'm not sure if they're with switch or not?
I'm thinking of getting a piece next week tho'

DIY looms - *eBay (16 or 8 way, Van Damme £9/m) plus 1/4" Jack Neutrik's few weeks ago £0.99/piece) I've made two 3 meters each...
I thought it was a good price plus bit of fun with solder and only me, myself and I to blame if something goes wrong...

*(that's not an advert)

--------------------
"A legend is an old man with a cane known for what he used to do. I'm still doing it." - Miles Davis

I'll second the Netrik suggestion as they are good quality for a decent price. The one I have does not have switches but... Why do you need switches? I thought the whole point of a patch bay was to permanently wire up your rack/recording equipment with the required i/o's.

I've got a Neutric LYS-LPP-1. Surprisingly inexpensive. Easy to set up, less easy to change later but not impossible and no soldering or cutting required. I'd highly recommend it.

CC

--------------------
Put the fun back into dysfunctional.
Mr Punch's Studio

Thanks, that Neutrik looks like it will do the job just fine - I hadn't realised it was balanced, or that it was screened. As for switches, I've found they can make changing configurations a little less hassle but they're not a deal-breaker.

Edited by nathanscribe (25/09/11 08:33 PM)

I have Samson patchbay and recommend it. Besides the switches (which are useful for occasional changes from normalized to half normalized and for the initial set up) it has a higher quality build than the others. Sockets just seem better. You can't tell from photos but if you see them in person you will see what I mean.

Quote fletcher:

---

I have Samson patchbay and recommend it.

---

+1

I have 3 Samson S-Patch devices and have nothing but good to say about them. They've run reliably for several years now and the front-panel switching system is very useful. I'd buy them again in a heartbeat.

--------------------
An Eagle for an Emperor, A Kestrel for a Knave.

After a little reading around I've seen several complaints about the NSY-SPP-1L, none about the Samson. It's more than I wanted to spend, but that beats having to buy another to replace a cheap one. I'm going to have a look at one this week.

As for looms, are those pre-moulded ones any cop? I'm not afraid of wiring my own, but if they are decent and save me two days of making up new profanities, I might be tempted.

Hello,

I have both the Samson S-Patch+ and the Neutrik NYS-SPP-L1.

The Neutrik has cheap jack sockets that move a bit, and cables are a bit hard to plug in (not comfortable for intensive re-patching). Also, changing the mode could be problematic. I never tried because I only use the low row currently.

The more expensive Samson has better jack sockets that do not move at all, and cables are very easy to plug. Also, there are switches for changing the mode.

But both work properly. I would say there is only a (pretty big) comfort difference between these devices.
When it comes to durability, I have no idea as I did not have any problem yet.

As far as I remember even the Samson is less expensive than the required parts for DIY.

Best,
-j

As it happens I had my NYS-SPP-L1 out last night (for the first time in a year) to change some of the connections from semi-normalled to straight through. Well, it's not something I want to do more than once a year really, but truthfully it wasn't that bad. The biggest problem was getting the front plate back on after I'd switched the modules round. That took about 15 mins of fiddling to get all the sockets lined up with the holes.

FWIW I've had no trouble plugging into the sockets or with sockets moving arround.

CC

--------------------
Put the fun back into dysfunctional.
Mr Punch's Studio

Quote nathanscribe:

---

There are various units about half that price, such as the Studiospares and Rean models, but they seem to be mostly open, and only covered on the top side, which I would have though left the whole lot open to dust and gunge... my rack is a Quiklok with perforated metal sides and an open top and rear, so I suspect a sealed patchbay would be better. Would it actually make much difference? These units are configured by rotating the PCBs, which sounds awkward.

---

I've had Studiospares 44 and 48 way patchbays for nearly 20 years and found them pretty good. For the first few years they were in an open rack in a smoky studio too. I've never found that rotating the PCB's was a hassle either.

James.

--------------------
JRP Music - Audio Mastering and Restoration.
http://www.jrpmusic.net

Ok, thanks. I wonder, does having a partially open enclosure on a balanced patchbay cause any problems with screening?

Most of the time we were running unbalanced line levels through these patchbays with no problems. Screening at the typical levels and impedances used for line level signals isn't as essential as it would be with high impedance signals like guitars or low level signals like microphones.

James.

--------------------
JRP Music - Audio Mastering and Restoration.
http://www.jrpmusic.net

Be a he man and go M&Ms (Mosses and Mitchell). Will last for 9 generations at least.

--------------------
Samplecraze
Stretch That Note

+1

Loopy