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But even the most reputable of dealers can have problems so it is worth making a checklist of things to do to protect yourself just in case.
1st of all, ensure you have a written agreement that details what you are selling and the terms of the deal. As a bare minimum the agreement should state that the equipment remains your property until sold; that the payment for the goods, less the agreed fee/commission, remains your property; the amount of the fee/commission agreed (and, where appropriate, the limits on the dealer's discretion in negotiating a sale). In addition, you may consider photographs of the equipment to help identification, whether the dealer should be including it in their advertisements and what limits you would accept on your own efforts to sell privately (one of the most annoying things for a dealer is to have someone come into the store to look at a guitar and then for the owner to withdraw it from sale to sell privately to the same person. They quite rightly feel more than a little agrieved).
Even the best run business can hit unexpected problems so it is always worth taking a few simple steps to protect your own interests.
Hope that helps.
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Both parties (owner & seller) should sign off on the state of the item, particularly any flaws it does & does NOT have at the time of being handed over for sale. All it takes is one unattended 12-year-old (or equivalent) to drop a your guitar four feet onto linoleum to call your "friendly arrangement" into question.
Also, establish insurance arrangements. If your item is stolen, do you get paid the agreed portion, do you have to file an insurance claim with your household insurer (who might not cover it), do you have to wait for the erstwhile seller to make a claim?
- Tony Raven
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Documentation, identification and insurance: can't emphasise them all too strongly.
You could still be at risk if the shop has sold your guitar before liquidation but has not passed over the money to you. This is basically the worst case scenario. It is possible, with good legal advice, to have an agreement whereby your title to the instrument is yours until sold, and also extend to the sale proceeds. But even that is not much use if he's paid the proceeds into an overdrawn bank account. The bank are unlikely to pay out anything post-liquidation to see you right at the expense of increasing their own unpaid debt.
To the extent possible, try to use someone who is not likely to go bust!
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It is free and you can post a pic of guitar or whatever. I Have sold a couple of guitars and an amplifier.
Check it out it's free.......dylan
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- Henry Mark1
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Eric Wendell wrote:Why??musicmixer28 wrote:Never sell a guitar at the pawnshop!
The price they pay will be well below market value.
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I remember Ted Turner of Wishbone Ash showing me his 1962 Gib 3-PU Black Beauty Les Paul and explaining that he had bought it from a pawn shop in Queensway, Bayswater for £55. Similarly, I bought my 1965 Deluxe Reverb for £52 from The Maniac Cash Buyer in Tooting. Great days! TT's axe would fetch five figures now easily, and I sold my Deluxe for £2K not long ago.
As far as selling on Ebay goes, I have always found that a really good description backed up with plenty of good photos works best.
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