SOUND ON SOUND

[megxykaly]

Hey, I'm looking to extend the cable on my Sony SS-210A vintage speakers so I can mount them on the wall. Instead of soldering, I thought it would be more cost efficient to use a crimping tool and crimp connectors for this. I ended up ordering a 18AWG cable as this was apparently the standard for most home speakers however now I have received the cable it looks a lot thicker then the original speaker cable. I just want to know if it would still be okay to use this cable despite the thickness if not what type of cable would I need?

Speaker type: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Sony ... SwXE5fw~6f

Amp type: https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=htt ... kDegQIARA5

[Hugh Robjohns]

The thicker the cable, the lower its resistance per metre, which is a very good thing when you're running longer lines.

So the new cable will be fine.

Ideally, though, it would be worth replacing the speaker's existing thin and nasty cable with the new thicker one, but that will involve partly dismantling the speaker and possibly having to unsolder the old cables and solder on the new ones.

[James Perrett]

Ideally, though, it would be worth replacing the speaker's existing thin and nasty cable with the new thicker one, but that will involve partly dismantling the speaker and possibly having to unsolder the old cables and solder on the new ones.

A halfway house solution would be to make the crimp joint close to the speakers so that you could eliminate most of the thin cable from the system. The short length of thin cable remaining would have less of an effect.

[megxykaly]

Hey, Thanks for your help :thumbup:

[ef37a]

From the pictures I have been able to find of the speakers they do not have any kind of connector at the back but are 'hardwired' It also seems that the only access inside is by taking out the woofer? I would avoid that if possible*. Assuming there is some cable already attached I would buy a strip of "choc-b;oc" screw terminals from Wikes/B&Q (avoid cheapies) and connet up that way. You can also fix the terminal block to the rear of the cab and make for a secure cable.

When you have it all connected, if you have a test meter, check for the correct DC resistance at the amplifier end. I very much doubt you will cause a short but a quick test will save that old amplifier which I am sure would not like it! In the absence of a meter (but you REALLY should get one) 'blob the wires across an AA cell. Nice clean POP? All is well.

* I apologize if I have underrated your experience? Better more info than not enough eh?

Dave.

[Arpangel]

Ideally, though, it would be worth replacing the speaker's existing thin and nasty cable with the new thicker one, but that will involve partly dismantling the speaker and possibly having to unsolder the old cables and solder on the new ones.

A halfway house solution would be to make the crimp joint close to the speakers so that you could eliminate most of the thin cable from the system. The short length of thin cable remaining would have less of an effect.

That’s what I’ve done with my 70’s 2 pin DIN KEF's.

:roll:

[ef37a]

Ideally, though, it would be worth replacing the speaker's existing thin and nasty cable with the new thicker one, but that will involve partly dismantling the speaker and possibly having to unsolder the old cables and solder on the new ones.

A halfway house solution would be to make the crimp joint close to the speakers so that you could eliminate most of the thin cable from the system. The short length of thin cable remaining would have less of an effect.

That’s what I’ve done with my 70’s 2 pin DIN KEF's.

:roll:

Oh I could have sent you some plugs Tone! Have a bag of NOS somewhere.

Da ve