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[Folderol]

Hacksaw a splicing block Hugh?

I think I would rather give a local engineer a decent drink and get it milled!

Dave.

Indeed
My Bib one has only 60 and 90ish deg, and the slits are very fine - just enough for a razor blade. Rather than shaped edges to hold the tape it has two clips with cork pads.
Personally I preferred that, as an accidental {very slight} movement of tape or block doesn't move the tape just after you've cut it!

[Dan LB]

Thanks for the info Hugh. Presumably 87 vs 90 really wouldn't be noticeable at 7.5ips on the 388. I'll make sure to look for block that has 60 and 87 or 90 degree slots.

It's been about 18 years or so since I've edited on tape and I’ve never edited multitrack.

[ef37a]

Hacksaw a splicing block Hugh?

I think I would rather give a local engineer a decent drink and get it milled!

Dave.

Indeed
My Bib one has only 60 and 90ish deg, and the slits are very fine - just enough for a razor blade. Rather than shaped edges to hold the tape it has two clips with cork pads.
Personally I preferred that, as an accidental {very slight} movement of tape or block doesn't move the tape just after you've cut it!

Yeah...LASERs mate!!

Dave.

[James Perrett]

My Bib one has only 60 and 90ish deg, and the slits are very fine - just enough for a razor blade. Rather than shaped edges to hold the tape it has two clips with cork pads.
Personally I preferred that, as an accidental {very slight} movement of tape or block doesn't move the tape just after you've cut it!

That's why, as discussed earlier, the tape channel is slightly narrower and the bottom curved. This has the effect of holding the tape in place without needing the clips. I have a Bib splicing block as well as a standard one and I've always found the clips fiddly to use.

[James Perrett]

I will be using it to edit both stereo 2-track tapes recorded on a Revox A77 and 8-track 1/4” tapes recorded with a Tascam 388.

I've never found the need to edit multitrack tapes - if I need to use different sections of the multitrack I'd just record/mix the sections separately and splice the stereo master. Editing the narrow format multitrack would be more likely to cause discontinuities in the audio as the sections need to be lined up very precisely to keep the tracks continuous.

[Sam Spoons]

Thanks for the info Hugh. Presumably 87 vs 90 really wouldn't be noticeable at 7.5ips on the 388. I'll make sure to look for block that has 60 and 87 or 90 degree slots.

It's been about 18 years or so since I've edited on tape and I’ve never edited multitrack.

The slight difference between the time each track passes the edit won't be noticeable, even with 8 tracks but with the 90 edit there may be a click as the edit passes the head. The 89º angle means the edit does not pass over the head in a single instant which usually is enough to avoid the click.

[Tim Gillett]

I will be using it to edit both stereo 2-track tapes recorded on a Revox A77 and 8-track 1/4” tapes recorded with a Tascam 388.

Wondering why splice edit these days. Splice when it's needed of course, but why not use the DAW for any editing?

[Dan LB]

I will be using it to edit both stereo 2-track tapes recorded on a Revox A77 and 8-track 1/4” tapes recorded with a Tascam 388.

I've never found the need to edit multitrack tapes - if I need to use different sections of the multitrack I'd just record/mix the sections separately and splice the stereo master. Editing the narrow format multitrack would be more likely to cause discontinuities in the audio as the sections need to be lined up very precisely to keep the tracks continuous.

Thanks James, I'd never thought of that! That makes alot of sense!!

[Dan LB]

I will be using it to edit both stereo 2-track tapes recorded on a Revox A77 and 8-track 1/4” tapes recorded with a Tascam 388.

Wondering why splice edit these days. Splice when it's needed of course, but why not use the DAW for any editing?

It's for a creative project I have in my head at the moment. It won't be the same for me if I do it in Pro Tools. It's also a bit of fun too really.

If it was a job i was doing for someone I'd most definitely do the edits in the box!

Dan

[resistorman]

Ah yes... undo was fragments of tape stuck on the control room window We did some astounding edits...

[Brian M Rose]

My first job was in a recording studio with old EMI recorders (as well as 16mm and 35mm optical)

And yes, it was all too easy to cut your fingers. The Studio Manager said that it didn't matter. As blood contained iron oxide it actually helped keep the edit quieter

[John Willett]

Hacksaw a splicing block Hugh?

I think I would rather give a local engineer a decent drink and get it milled!

Dave.

Indeed
My Bib one has only 60 and 90ish deg, and the slits are very fine - just enough for a razor blade. Rather than shaped edges to hold the tape it has two clips with cork pads.
Personally I preferred that, as an accidental {very slight} movement of tape or block doesn't move the tape just after you've cut it!

I always hated the Bib block as it did not hold the tape properly at the point you cut it and the tape sometimes curled up and you could not cut as accurately.

Personally I used to put two piesec of tape in the block - one on top of the other with both splicing pints on top of each other. The cut would then cut both sides of the cut identically and make for a much cleaner join.

With the EMIblock (and the like) the cuts were fine when new, but the slot tended to widen with use so each cut could be slightly different - which is why I liked to cut two at once so the join was perfect.

I remember seeing one block that had been screwed to the ytape recorder at LBC London that had actually been cut all the way through with use and the two halves would swivel separately - and more - the reporsers had actually cut a slot all the way through the recorder's top plate with use.

THough, personally, in the latter days, I moved over to the CAT tape splicer which was much better.



I still have it.

Canford Audio still sell single-sided razor blades and Chinagraph pencils - but nit the blocks, it seems.

[ManFromGlass]

vague memory of being told that using a razor blade that had become magnetized could cause pops or clicks at the splice point. But then it was so long ago I could be making this up!

[Kwackman]

vague memory of being told that using a razor blade that had become magnetized could cause pops or clicks at the splice point. But then it was so long ago I could be making this up!

Nope, it was a real thing. I was that soldier more than few times!

[ef37a]

vague memory of being told that using a razor blade that had become magnetized could cause pops or clicks at the splice point. But then it was so long ago I could be making this up!

Then they were cheapskates most grades of Stainless Steel are non-magnetic.

Re the cut tape "shifting"? I recall a splicer that had clamps lined with cork.

Dave.

[Martin Walker]

Re the cut tape "shifting"? I recall a splicer that had clamps lined with cork.

Yep, that's the Bib one mentioned several times above Dave - I had one of those too, and never experienced any slippage.


Martin

[John Willett]

Re the cut tape "shifting"? I recall a splicer that had clamps lined with cork.

Yep, that's the Bib one mentioned several times above Dave - I had one of those too, and never experienced any slippage.

No slippage, but the tape tended to curl at the edit point - I never liked this design.

And I never had slippage with the EMI one.

I suppose it was just skill.

Then I did splice tape for about 20 years before I started digital editing.

[Folderol]

This seems very much a case of "Your mileage may vary".
I never had a problem with the Bib splicer, but the other type which was supposed to hold the tape in it's chamfers was utterly hopeless. The slightest nudge when apply the splicing tape and you had a nice little air gap between the tape edges

Also, with care the Bib one could be used for recovering (most of) mums precious cassette recordings. I never could get her to understand that you need to clean the gunk off the heads, and especially the pinch wheel.

[Hugh Robjohns]

This seems very much a case of "Your mileage may vary".
I never had a problem with the Bib splicer, but the other type which was supposed to hold the tape in it's chamfers was utterly hopeless. The slightest nudge when apply the splicing tape and you had a nice little air gap between the tape edges

Yeah, definitely a case of YMMV... Combined with training, technique, and practice. The bib one with the clamps is very slow to use in comparison to the Editall type of block which, when used properly, has no slippage problem. John's point about cutting through both sides of the edit at the same time is important one, too, both for speed and accuracy.

[ManFromGlass]

Aww yes - accuracy! Numerous times a dull blade really buggered the angle of my cuts. I remember trying a sawing motion when sharper blades were not available which made the angle even worse because it pulled the tape into the groove. Lesson learned.