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Tape Splicing Block

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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby Brian M Rose » Sun Nov 18, 2018 10:31 am

My first job was in a recording studio with old EMI recorders (as well as 16mm and 35mm optical)

And yes, it was all too easy to cut your fingers. The Studio Manager said that it didn't matter. As blood contained iron oxide it actually helped keep the edit quieter :lol:
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby John Willett » Sun Nov 18, 2018 12:58 pm

Folderol wrote:
ef37a wrote:Hacksaw a splicing block Hugh?

I think I would rather give a local engineer a decent drink and get it milled!

Dave.
Indeed :o
My Bib one has only 60 and 90ish deg, and the slits are very fine - just enough for a razor blade. Rather than shaped edges to hold the tape it has two clips with cork pads.
Personally I preferred that, as an accidental {very slight} movement of tape or block doesn't move the tape just after you've cut it!

I always hated the Bib block as it did not hold the tape properly at the point you cut it and the tape sometimes curled up and you could not cut as accurately.

Personally I used to put two piesec of tape in the block - one on top of the other with both splicing pints on top of each other. The cut would then cut both sides of the cut identically and make for a much cleaner join.

With the EMIblock (and the like) the cuts were fine when new, but the slot tended to widen with use so each cut could be slightly different - which is why I liked to cut two at once so the join was perfect.

I remember seeing one block that had been screwed to the ytape recorder at LBC London that had actually been cut all the way through with use and the two halves would swivel separately - and more - the reporsers had actually cut a slot all the way through the recorder's top plate with use. :o

THough, personally, in the latter days, I moved over to the CAT tape splicer which was much better. :thumbup:

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I still have it.

Canford Audio still sell single-sided razor blades and Chinagraph pencils - but nit the blocks, it seems.
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby ManFromGlass » Sun Nov 18, 2018 2:32 pm

vague memory of being told that using a razor blade that had become magnetized could cause pops or clicks at the splice point. But then it was so long ago I could be making this up!
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby Kwackman » Sun Nov 18, 2018 2:35 pm

ManFromGlass wrote:vague memory of being told that using a razor blade that had become magnetized could cause pops or clicks at the splice point. But then it was so long ago I could be making this up!

Nope, it was a real thing. I was that soldier more than few times!
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby ef37a » Sun Nov 18, 2018 2:51 pm

ManFromGlass wrote:vague memory of being told that using a razor blade that had become magnetized could cause pops or clicks at the splice point. But then it was so long ago I could be making this up!

Then they were cheapskates most grades of Stainless Steel are non-magnetic.

Re the cut tape "shifting"? I recall a splicer that had clamps lined with cork.

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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby Martin Walker » Sun Nov 18, 2018 3:38 pm

ef37a wrote:Re the cut tape "shifting"? I recall a splicer that had clamps lined with cork.

Yep, that's the Bib one mentioned several times above Dave - I had one of those too, and never experienced any slippage.


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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby John Willett » Sun Nov 18, 2018 4:10 pm

Martin Walker wrote:
ef37a wrote:Re the cut tape "shifting"? I recall a splicer that had clamps lined with cork.

Yep, that's the Bib one mentioned several times above Dave - I had one of those too, and never experienced any slippage.

No slippage, but the tape tended to curl at the edit point - I never liked this design.

And I never had slippage with the EMI one.

I suppose it was just skill. ;)

Then I did splice tape for about 20 years before I started digital editing. ;)
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby Folderol » Sun Nov 18, 2018 4:15 pm

This seems very much a case of "Your mileage may vary".
I never had a problem with the Bib splicer, but the other type which was supposed to hold the tape in it's chamfers was utterly hopeless. The slightest nudge when apply the splicing tape and you had a nice little air gap between the tape edges :(

Also, with care the Bib one could be used for recovering (most of) mums precious cassette recordings. I never could get her to understand that you need to clean the gunk off the heads, and especially the pinch wheel.
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby Hugh Robjohns » Sun Nov 18, 2018 5:45 pm

Folderol wrote:This seems very much a case of "Your mileage may vary".
I never had a problem with the Bib splicer, but the other type which was supposed to hold the tape in it's chamfers was utterly hopeless. The slightest nudge when apply the splicing tape and you had a nice little air gap between the tape edges :(

Yeah, definitely a case of YMMV... Combined with training, technique, and practice. ;-) The bib one with the clamps is very slow to use in comparison to the Editall type of block which, when used properly, has no slippage problem. John's point about cutting through both sides of the edit at the same time is important one, too, both for speed and accuracy.
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby ManFromGlass » Sun Nov 18, 2018 6:37 pm

Aww yes - accuracy! Numerous times a dull blade really buggered the angle of my cuts. I remember trying a sawing motion when sharper blades were not available which made the angle even worse because it pulled the tape into the groove. Lesson learned.
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby John Willett » Mon Nov 19, 2018 11:47 am

ManFromGlass wrote:Aww yes - accuracy! Numerous times a dull blade really buggered the angle of my cuts. I remember trying a sawing motion when sharper blades were not available which made the angle even worse because it pulled the tape into the groove. Lesson learned.

Buy a box of 100 (Canford Audio) and throw each one away as they get dull :thumbup:
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby Dan LB » Mon Nov 19, 2018 11:45 pm

For anyone wondering about the splicit.com blocks, I’ve had a reply from Roger at splicit.com and he says the angles on their blocks are actual ie. 45 and 90.

I’m still scouting eBay for an Editall block with 60 and 87 degree slots at the right price ;)

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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby Dan LB » Fri Nov 23, 2018 2:42 am

Bought one on eBay in the end. A bit steep at €57 :o but that includes postage and it was surprisingly considerably cheaper than any other I could find. Oh well, that’s supply and demand for ya! It’s an Editall with 45, 60 and 87ish degree slots.

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Thank you all for your input and advice. :clap:


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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby Mike Stranks » Fri Nov 23, 2018 11:11 am

Sentimental old fool that I am I still have my 'editing box'... EMI block, several single-sided razor blades, a couple of chinagraphs, a reel of splicing tape, some coloured leader and an abomination of an amateur block which had some clamps to hold the tape tight as you cut it.

But as said, the EMI block was a work of art.
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Re: Tape Splicing Block

Postby Mike Stranks » Fri Nov 23, 2018 11:15 am

Sorry Dan... egg-sucking tips for granny: I guess you've done tape-editing before and know the importance of an offset-mark so you don't risk gunk-up or damage to the replay head with chinagraph.
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