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3D Printing

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Re: 3D Printing

Postby Martin Walker » Sat Nov 09, 2019 6:25 pm

Aye, it pays to get into a groove, doesn't it BJG145? :beamup:


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Re: 3D Printing

Postby BJG145 » Sat Nov 09, 2019 6:30 pm

...what is da-dum, da-da-da-ah-ah-ah, anyway...

...sorry, what was that?

Just distracted listening to my Howard Jones cassettes...

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Re: 3D Printing

Postby Sam Spoons » Sat Nov 09, 2019 6:53 pm

BJG145 wrote:(Great word, "fettling". I picked it up from the Northumbrian smallpipes community; they're always fettling things.)

:D Yup, fettling :- making something work properly (and possibly as well as it is possible to work). We yotters do it a lot, the next step up is 'bimbling', which is, basically, fettling with added shiny new bits. :D
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby blinddrew » Sat Nov 09, 2019 8:30 pm

Well fettled! :thumbup:
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby Wonks » Sun Nov 10, 2019 12:10 am

I've always understood 'bimbling' to mean a sort of ambling along with no particular objective in mind.
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby Sam Spoons » Sun Nov 10, 2019 12:11 am

I thought that was 'Wombling" ;)
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby Wonks » Sun Nov 10, 2019 12:15 am

That's litter collecting, so movement with intention.

I almost wrote 'moovement' there, but that's what cows do.
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby Sam Spoons » Sun Nov 10, 2019 11:45 am

So Wombling is a sort of Eco-Yomping then?
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby Wonks » Sun Nov 10, 2019 11:52 am

I wouldn't call Wimbledon Common 'difficult terrain' to move over, which seems to be part of the 'yomping' definition.

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Re: 3D Printing

Postby Sam Spoons » Sun Nov 10, 2019 11:54 am

:bouncy:
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby ManFromGlass » Sun Nov 10, 2019 1:50 pm

Isn’t yomping a variation on the Swedish "jumping"?

Oh sorry . . . .
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby Sam Spoons » Sun Nov 10, 2019 2:38 pm

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Re: 3D Printing

Postby BigRedX » Sun Nov 10, 2019 7:10 pm

BJG145 wrote:I got a call from Webster's to say that the KX5 was ready for collection...

...now, like I say, these are general electronics repair types, A/V mainly. I wouldn't expect them to hook the thing up to MidiOX and check the output - I just asked them to get it to power up reliably. Which they did.

Unfortunately though, although the thing now turned on and could vaguely trigger notes, it produced all kinds of MIDI garbage when you flexed it even slightly, or tried to use aftertouch. And that's hopeless. Because I don't want to cradle it like a Fabergé egg, I want to jump around and swing it like Korg lady.

I nearly gave up at this point, but after another coffee I sighed heavily and dismantled it for the umpteenth time. And I found that it had been reassembled in such a way that a couple of circuit boards which should sit in a groove, weren't; they were sitting beside the groove. So I sorted that out...

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...and, amazingly, that made the rogue data go away.

(I don't blame them for this faux pas. To be honest I wouldn't say that Yamaha left no stone unturned in the pursuit of engineering excellence when they designed this thing. It's a bit gimcrack frankly.)

There were still some stubborn keys that were triggering wrongly, or not at all, but another hour or so fettling the contacts eventually settled them down.

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(Great word, "fettling". I picked it up from the Northumbrian smallpipes community; they're always fettling things.)

And...yay! It finally works like a charm. Happy days. :D

If you do want to be able to leap up and down with this you will need to do something about the MIDI output socket. As well as transferring MIDI data the socket is also part of the power circuit. You can’t switch on the KX5 without a DIN plug inserted in it. Unfortunately this also means that the slightest movement of the plug in the socket will cause momentary power glitches and interruption of the flow of MIDI data. On mine this resulted in numerous stuck notes. Within a month of buying mine, had replaced the DIN socket with an XLR and bypassed the power switch on the socket, meaning that I had to remember to use the actual power switch to turn the KX5 off and couldn’t simply unplug the MIDI lead to disconnect the power.
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby BJG145 » Sun Nov 10, 2019 8:53 pm

BigRedX wrote:If you do want to be able to leap up and down with this you will need to do something about the MIDI output socket...On mine this resulted in numerous stuck notes.

...right...I did wonder if that was contributing to the problems. Thanks for the tip!
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Re: 3D Printing

Postby EnragedDeveloper » Tue Nov 12, 2019 10:25 pm

[quote="BJG145"]

This thing only runs from batteries, no PSU input, but I've ordered what I hope will be a compatible replacement battery holder to hold half a dozen AAs in the narrow channel. (In fact, I ordered five of them, because that was the minimum quantity available for the only one I could track down in the UK which looked compatible. But still, only a couple of quid each.)

The saga is extremely like the KX5 key repair blog I mentioned before...KX5 turns up with six keys broken in one characteristic way:

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...and in the course of fixing them, a seventh breaks in a different characteristic way.

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I did procure an aluminium rod for the first type of repair, looked at it for a while, then remembered I don't have any tools or DIY skills and pushed the button on the Chile dealer. I'll probably go through a similar process again for the newly broken key, though I might have a quick go because I think that pointy bit might be just a guide for seating the key, rather than the hooky bit which is more tough and structural.

******************

A couple of things:
That Key looks fairly simple and could probably be printed as a 2 piece clamshell so you could fit the springy steel into the retention mechanism before bonding the halves together.

South of that, If you have the broken pieces of the keys look on YouTube for baking soda and (CA) superglue plastic repairs. Apparently it is a very easy and reliable way to reconstruct functional plastics that are hard or impossible to obtain.

If you want an easier path than burning a dozen batteries a day, 6x 1.5V LR6 AA batteries connected in series yields 9 Volts and at full discharge, a dozen batteries are consumed after 4-6 hours. You could modify the Battery area to use Li-Po batteries with a small area reserved for a charging circuit. ( You can buy one pre assembled with over charging protection.) A typical remote car toy battery is 11.1V which can be stepped down to 9V with a buck converter for a cost of about $0.50. If you add multiple batteries and wire them in Parallel (keeping the Voltage at 11.1) you will get a lot more play time before a recharge is needed.

Another Power option is to wire in a receptacle and an on/off/on switch which would allow you to run a DC converter from the wall into the device and turn on batteries, mains or nothing. Combined you could also use the DC jack to charge the LI-Po batteries.
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